Buyers Most frequent questions and answers

This is the time when young children should be instructed as to proper handling of the puppy & teaching them common-sense rules you have set down from the beginning, will eliminate problems or accidents later on. Read more…

Many dogs are not prepared for a car ride, nausea & car sickness is possible, but not common. Bring baby wipes & paper towels in case needed. Be sure to potty him/her before getting in the car. On your first trip, it’s better to hold him/her as will be insecure about new people & smells, talk to him so he will be more comfortable. I recommend bottled water until you get him home. Do not stop & potty him/her in public dog areas as there are countless contagious diseases & shots are never 100% effective. Do not take a puppy under 4 months (age of completion of shots) in public dog areas. Read more…

When parents find out they are going to have a child, they make all sorts of preparations. A special area, food, toys, bottles, etc. You need to make the same preparations for a new puppy & think about the equipment you will need to care for him/her. Your puppy is going to need a place he/she can call his/her own and a crate/cage will fill this bill. Get one that will be large enough for him/her as an adult, I use 24 x 36 inches. The pup will need food, water bowls, toys, collar, leash, doggie toothbrush & toothpaste, a good quality dog food (I am a fan of Eukanuba Large Breed,) & plenty of papers or training pads. If he/she sleeps in a cool area of the home, make sure he/she has a blanket at night or when left alone. Puppy pack idea…

Leaving mom & littermates will probably bring some kind of separation anxiety. This can be greatly diminished if you plan your schedules so someone is with the puppy constantly for the first 3-4 days. I suggest you plan for this introductory period by keeping the puppy involved with plenty of attention from family & children through every one of him/her waking moments. Allowing him/her to sleep when tired, eat & drink when hungry & working on the house training from the first moment he/she arrives in his new home, read more….

What, when & how to feed a puppy is very basic with a new puppy. It is best to feed a quality dry dog food from the beginning. I “free” feed my dogs. I feel that if they get too hungry and wolf their food down, along with a lot of air, it increases the chances of “bloat.” Dogs are susceptible to bloat as are any breed with a deep chest. If good quality food and fresh water are always available, then I find my dogs calmly eat when hungry and drink when thirsty. And, immediately come to wipe their face on you. Read more…

Housetraining the Very Young Puppy. (Under 16 weeks of age) by Lesley Morrow.

Successful house training depends mostly on the humans involved in the process. By using prevention instead of punishment, with vigilance, reasonable expectations, and by using a puppy’s natural instincts, housetraining can be accomplished painlessly and in a reasonably short time. Breed and/or sex have no impact on the ease or difficulty of teaching your puppy to eliminate in a specific area (be it outdoors, on newspapers, or in a kitty litter box.) Puppies are instinctively clean. From birth, they leave the pile of sleeping litter mates and go as far away as possible to eliminate. Unless forced to do so, puppies will not soil their bed and this instinct is your greatest training aid. Read more…

The puppy is used to sleeping with several brothers and sisters, so for him/her to feel lonely and cry the first couple of nights is normal. When you are ready for bed, place newspaper to the back of your crate and a small blanket to the front. Place the crate by your bed. When the puppy cries out, place your finger through the wire door, touching his/her nose. Don’t sweet-talk him/her, tell him/her ‘no’ in a soft voice and leave your finger there until he stops crying. The only thing you tell him when he cries out is softly but firmly ‘no’, you already have your finger there for reassurance. Whatever you do….do not take him out of the crate unless you need to change his newspaper or pad. If you need to change it, do it quickly and without any talking to or playing with the puppy. By the 3rd night, you should be able to move the crate and place it inside a blocked off area, like the kitchen, or a wire playpen which should already be set up on a linoleum/hard floor surface. Leave the crate door open. Now you can take the newspaper out of the crate and line the playpen with it. The puppy will be very happy that he is able to come in and out of the crate at night as well as during the day. I usually leave my dogs crated all night, just to keep them out of trouble unless they are sleeping with one of my kids. Read more…

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For a vet check as soon as possible & to set up the rest of her/his shot schedule. REMEMBER…. a puppy needs to potty immediately upon waking, again in 5 -10 minutes, after eating/ drinking then again in 5-10 minutes & every 30 minutes after that. Pick him/her up to go outside, saying ” outside, potty” then use elaborate praise when he does his “thing”. I praise him/her, saying “good, potty, good potty!!!!”. Read more…


A puppy should only be confined as many daytime hours as he is months old before being taken out to relieve himself. That is, an 8-week-old puppy will need to go out every two hours during the day. Doubling that for the night would mean that an 8-week-old puppy should be taken out every four hours during the night. A 12-week-old pup would go 3 hours during the day and 6 at night; a 16 week old would go 4 hours and give you an 8-hour night. These are guidelines, of course, and every puppy is a little different. You may get lucky, and have one that will sleep the night from day one, or yours may take a little longer to get there. Very young puppies need to go out first thing in the morning, immediately after eating and/or drinking, after playtimes, immediately upon waking, and immediately before you retire for the night. Then, if there is any time left, take him out according to the schedule outlined in the previous paragraph. Your personal schedule may not allow you to follow the schedule rigidly. If there is any way for you to adjust your schedule for a few weeks to allow you to accommodate the puppy’s needs, you will be repaid in a short time with a dog that is reliably housebroken. If you cannot adjust your schedule, then please adjust your mindset to accepting the fact that it will take a little longer for your puppy to get the message. If you know you are going to be gone for more hours than your puppy can reasonably be expected to control himself, then make it easy on both of you. Suspend your attempts to house train during that time, put him in an area where he can leave his bed (crate) to eliminate. The crate surrounded by an exercise pen described previously works fine. Just put down plenty of newspaper for the pup to use while you’re gone, clean it up when you get home, and go on with your training. Quite often, once the pup develops the muscular control, he will try and wait for your return, in spite of having those papers available. If you are using newspapers, take note of where your pup makes his deposits. Gradually start removing the papers around this area, until you only have to leave a small section covered for him. It is generally best to carry the puppy outside because walking stimulates the pup’s bowel and sphincter. Set him down where you want him to go and then you just stand in one place until he goes. Always go with your puppy, even if you have a fenced yard. Your being there is the only way to know if he has relieved himself and you cannot give timely praise if you can’t see what he is doing. You can teach your pup to relieve herself on command by telling her to “Go potty” or “get busy” (or whatever words you want to use) just as she starts to relieve himself. Praise quietly while she is going (don’t distract her!) and then give enthusiastic praise and a treat (if you use them) when she is done.

  •          Set rules immediately and stick to them.
  •          Avoid situations that promote inappropriate behavior.
  •         Observe the pet and provide for his/her needs.
  •          Supervise the new pet diligently through undivided individual attention and training, and restrict pet’s access to a limited area of house until training is complete.
  •          Encourage good behavior with praise and attention and treats.
  •          Correct bad behaviors by providing positive alternatives (toy for sock, bone for shoe, etc.)
  •          Never physically punish or force compliance to commands.  
  •          Don’t play rough or encourage aggressive behavior or play biting.
  •          Expose pets to people, animals, and environments where you want them to live.
  •          See your veterinarian or contact breeder/seller about serious or unresolved problems.

Do not punish the puppy. If you catch him in the act, don’t let him finish. Pick him up (you can give one low, growling “anghhh!” of disapproval) and take him outside. Wait with him until he finishes, then praise. When you bring him back in, put him in his crate while you clean up. Make sure you use one of those scent-removing solutions, such as Simple Solution, to remove all traces of odor. If the odor is not completely neutralized the dog will be attracted back to the same place. In a pinch, seltzer works pretty well. Asking to Go Out Once the pup has the idea of house training, you can teach him to signal you when he needs to go. If your dog hasn’t already developed a signal by himself, decide what you want him to do. Some options are barking, going to the door and scratching, or even ringing a bell. Teach him the signal as a separate exercise. I strongly recommend using clicker training to teach a new behavior. When you recognize his need to eliminate, ask him, with some enthusiasm, “Do you want to go out?” Put on his lead, and take him to the door. At the door, have him perform his signal behavior. Click/treat and take him out. (Or if he really needs to go, click and treat after he potties.) If you opt not to clicker train, use praise and/or treats instead, but otherwise, follow the same procedure. Before long, your pup will automatically give you the signal in response to your “Do you want to go out” question, and shortly thereafter, he will initiate the signaling behavior when he needs to eliminate. In all fairness, though, do not tease him with the “out” question by not following through. If you do, the question will lose its meaning and confuse the dog.

Your puppy will come to you already crate-trained. However, not all puppies have ideal beginnings, so you may have to introduce your puppy to the crate. One way to introduce the crate is by removing the door and surrounding it with an exercise pen, where the exercise pen area can be covered with newspapers if the puppy must be unsupervised, or if you must leave the puppy alone for more hours a day than he is capable of regulating his eliminations. This arrangement allows the puppy to keep his bed (the crate) clean. Feed the puppy in his crate, and if he is reluctant to go in to eat, put the bowls just in the doorway, so he can stand outside and eat with only his head inside. At each meal, put the bowls an inch or two further back, until he willingly goes in to eat. Also, keep a few toys in the crate. When he is comfortable eating in the crate it is time to teach him to stay quietly inside while confined. Put the door back on the crate. This time, when you feed him, close the door. As soon as he is done eating, let him out and take him to his potty area.

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